Why Is My Car Making A Clicking Noise When I Turn?
- Tyler Ellis
- Dec 26, 2025
- 4 min read
A clicking noise while turning is one of those symptoms that feels minor… right up until it isn’t. Sometimes it’s a simple fix. Other times it’s a warning that a steering or driveline part is wearing out and getting close to failure.
If you’re asking “Why Is My Car Making A Clicking Noise When I Turn?”, you’re usually dealing with a problem in the front axle/steering area—especially on front-wheel drive and many all-wheel drive vehicles.
Let’s break down the likely causes, what the repair normally looks like, and why it’s smart to handle it sooner rather than later.
Why Is My Car Making A Clicking Noise When I Turn? The Pattern Matters
The exact pattern of the noise helps narrow it down fast. Pay attention to:
Does it click only on full-lock turns (like parking lots)?
Does it click more turning left or right?
Is it a rapid click-click-click or a single clunk?
Does it happen while moving slowly, or also at speed?
Most true “clicking while turning” complaints end up being CV axle related—but there are other possibilities that can sound similar.
What Causes This Problem?
Here are the most common causes behind turn-related clicking.
Why Is My Car Making A Clicking Noise When I Turn? Common Causes
1) Worn outer CV joint (most common)
The outer CV joint allows the axle to transmit power while the wheel is turned. Over time, the joint wears internally, and it starts making a rhythmic clicking during turns—often louder at low speeds and sharper turns.
Common signs:
Clicking gets worse under acceleration while turning
Clicking mostly on one side (often louder turning opposite direction of the bad joint)
Grease sling around the wheel well if the CV boot is torn
A torn boot accelerates wear fast because grease escapes and dirt gets in.
2) Torn CV boot (even if it’s not clicking yet)
Sometimes you catch the boot failure before the joint is fully worn. That’s a win—because replacing the boot (on some designs) or addressing it early can prevent total joint failure and avoid getting stranded.
3) Loose or worn suspension/steering components
A single clunk or repeated click can come from:
Tie rod ends (inner or outer)
Ball joints
Sway bar end links
Control arm bushings
Strut mounts
These often make noise over bumps too, but turning can load them in a way that makes the sound more obvious.
4) Wheel bearing play
Wheel bearings usually growl or hum, but if they’re loose enough, they can click or clunk during turning and braking loads. This is less common than a CV axle click, but it’s important because a failing wheel bearing can become a safety issue.
5) Brake hardware or backing plate contact
Occasionally the “clicking” is actually:
A loose brake pad clip
A dust shield/backing plate lightly contacting the rotor
A small rock trapped between shield and rotor
This is usually a lighter, more metallic tick and can sometimes happen even when you’re not accelerating.
How to Fix It?
The correct fix depends on what’s making the noise. The key is confirming the source before replacing parts—because a CV axle and a suspension clunk can sound similar in a parking lot.
Quick, Safe Checks You Can Do
Look for grease around the inside of the wheel or on suspension parts near the axle. Grease sling is a strong CV boot clue.
Notice if the clicking increases when accelerating through a turn. That points toward a CV joint.
Listen for a single clunk vs. rapid clicking. A clunk often suggests suspension play rather than a CV joint.
Avoid hard testing maneuvers if the noise is getting loud or suddenly worsened. If a CV joint is near failure, you don’t want to stress it.
What a Shop Will Typically Do to Diagnose It
Road test to reproduce the noiseTight turns, light acceleration, and controlled conditions help identify which side and which type of noise.
Visual inspection of CV boots and axle conditionTears, grease loss, and looseness are checked.
Check steering and suspension joints for playTie rods, ball joints, links, control arm bushings, and strut mounts are inspected.
Check wheel bearing play and rotation feelBearings are tested for looseness and roughness.
Confirm the repair eliminates the noiseNo one wants “it’s better” — the goal is “it’s gone.”
If you want to get it diagnosed quickly, schedule here: https://www.roundrockautocenter.com/appointments
Typical Repairs (What It Usually Ends Up Being)
If it’s a CV axle / CV joint:
Replace the CV axle assembly (common)
Replace axle seal if leaking (as needed)
Verify transmission fluid level afterward (vehicle-dependent)
Recheck for noise on a post-repair road test
If it’s steering/suspension play:
Replace worn tie rod end / ball joint / end link / control arm component
Perform an alignment if required (often needed after steering/suspension work)
If it’s brake hardware or shield contact:
Re-secure hardware or adjust backing plate
Verify rotor and pad condition
Why Act Now?
A clicking noise while turning can go from “annoying” to “not moving” faster than you’d think.
A failing CV joint can break and leave you stranded.
Loose steering/suspension parts can affect handling and tire wear, and in worst cases become unsafe.
Wheel bearings can worsen rapidly and damage hubs or other components if ignored.
Early fixes are often cheaper than waiting until secondary damage happens.
If the noise suddenly got louder, started happening on gentle turns, or you feel vibration along with the clicking, it’s time to treat it as urgent.
Schedule an Inspection at Round Rock Auto Center
If you’re trying to figure out Why Is My Car Making A Clicking Noise When I Turn?, Round Rock Auto Center can pinpoint whether it’s a CV axle, a suspension joint, a wheel bearing, or something simpler—then fix it the right way.
Get it checked before it turns into a breakdown (or tire-eating alignment problem). Schedule here: https://www.roundrockautocenter.com
For more common car symptom guides and maintenance tips, visit: https://www.roundrockautocenter.com/blog
Comments